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No. 4129 (on the right)-The smart little waist shown in this illustration-where it is combined with skirt No. 4131-offers many possibilities in the way of development and decoration. The center front panel, for instance, will lend itself very effectively to the introduction of embroidery or soutache braiding, which may be repeated on the cuffs of the shorter sleeves. The neck may be high or open. The sleeves, which are cut in one with the side-front and side-back, may be finished in either of two lengths.
No. 4131 (on the right)-One of the newest ideas in skirt designing is illustrated in this charming model, which is combined with waist No. 4129. A graceful tunic effect is obtained by the adjustment of the three-piece upper part over the circular flounce, while a smart addition is seen in the applied panel at the center back. This, however, may be omitted if desired. The high waistline is another modish feature of the design, although this too, is optional, the regulation one being also provided for. The skirt may be finished at the back in habit style or with an inverted pleat, and may be made in ground or shorter length.
No. 4150 (on the left)-This piquant little over-blouse will appeal to the woman who likes to combine simplicity with good style, while the home needle-woman will regard it with special favor because it is so easily made. The character of the design renders it particularly suitable for development in bordered materials or embroidered flouncing, although it is quite adaptable to plain materials. As illustrated on this page, however, a pretty bordered foulard was chosen for fashioning it, the skirt combined with it (No. 4137) being of the same material. The over blouse is intended to be worn over a guimpe.
No. 4137 (on the left)-Yoke skirts are commanding considerable attention just now, and the combination of a yoke with pleated sections is the latest thought of the skirt designers. An attractive model of the latter type is shown here, a deep, well fitted yoke-which may have either the high or regulation waistline-affording a smooth fit about the hips, while two straight pleated sections present a double skirt effect below. The skirt may be made in round or shorter length. It measures, when the pleats are extended, three and three-quarter yards at the lower edge in the medium size. Bordered material or embroidered flouncing would provide a stylish and pretty development for this model, although any fabric that will lend itself readily to pleating may be used.
No. 4159 (on the left)-A waist model which may be developed either for separate or costume wear is a desirable acquisition to every woman. The chic design illustrated here will appeal not only on this score, but also because it is at once so pretty and simple to make. TH eupper part of this waist, including front and back and sleeves, is in one piece, the lower part being in bib effect. The low round neck is edged with a trimming band, while flat cuffs in fancy outline complete the short sleeves. The waist, which is intended to be worn with a guimpe, is here made of linen and all over embroidery.
No. 4133 (on the left)-This pretty tunic skirt will appeal to everyone who appreciates the value of simple, graceful lines. The smooth fit about the hips and the full length panel at the front and back of the four piece tunic are features that serve to adapt the model to practically every type of figure. Both the high and regulation waistline provided fort, so one may choose which-ever is most becoming. The foundation skirt, in five gores, is lengthened by a circular flounce, which may effectively be composed of contrasting material. As shown in the illustration the flounce is made of allover embroidery, the the tunic is of linen. Cashmere, voile, fine serge, satin-faced cloth, satin and foulard are all suitable for making this skirt. This model is an excellent one for use in making over last season's skirt.
No. 4143 (on the right)-For the practical waist one could select not better model than this, which combines in a pre-eminent degree those desirable qualities, simplicity and style. The arrangement of the tucks affords good lines, and the insertion of a small gusset under each arm insures a correct and comfortable fit. The neck may be made high and finished with a standing collar, or, if desired it may be cut in round or pointed outline. The sleeves may be in full or shorter length, the full length style being finished in deep cuffs, and the shorter with narrower ones. The waist is here combined with skirt No. 4119 and composed of champagne linen.
No. 4119 (on the right)-Among the newer skirts there are a number of pleated models, one of the most pleasing being shown here. This is cut in nine gores and had backward turning pleat at each seam, the result being a box pleated effect at the center front and an inverted pleat and the center back, where the skirt is closed. The waistline may be in high or regulation style, while both round and shorter length are provided for. The skirt measures, when extended, three and one-quarter yards at the lower edge in size 26. IT may be appropriately developed in any of the smart suitings or in a firm tub fabric. In the drawing here where it is shown in costume effect with waist No. 4143, it is made of linen. Fore the practical everyday skirt that every woman find indispensable, this design might be suitably modeled in a good quality serge, cheviot, or panama, in black or navy blue.
No. 4139 (on the left)-A most distinctive and very unusual type of gown is shown in this design. The model consists of a short waisted body and a six gore skirt, the latter being very high waisted and attached to the body. The panel at front and back affords the long, unbroken lines that are so becoming, while the side front closing will appeal to every woman who likes to be self-dependent enough to dress herself without assistance. The neck may be high or square, while the sleeves may be in full or shorter length. If desired, however, they may be omitted, and the sleeve caps used alone. The epaulets-which may also be omitted-add very materially to the effectiveness of this dress. The skirt may be cut in either round or short length. IN the former style, it measures two and three-quarter yards in size thirty-six. The design is suitable for modeling in chiffon broadcloth, French serge, cashmere, pongee, linen or rep. As sown in the color drawing, biscuit-colored chiffon broadcloth was used. McCall's Transfer Design No. 365 being used for the braiding introduced on the bands. Contrasting material might be used for these, however, while small buttons might also be introduced as an additional trimming.
No. 4141 (center)-One of the striking innovations of the present season is for the Norfolk waist, a pleasing design for which is given here, the skirt shown with it being No. 4117. The waist, which is of very simple construction in spite of its smart appearance is made with panel front and back, and is closed at the side-front, the front and back seams being concealed beneath applied pleats. The neck may be high or open, the high neck being finished with a standing collar and the open neck with a sailor collar. The sleeves may be made in full or shorter length, the short ones being completed with turn back cuffs. A wide belt, which is slipped under the pleats, provides a smart finish for the waist. A modish development for this waist, as suggested in the color illustration, would be white French serge, with collar, cuffs and belt of blue. For the most effective result, the skirt completing the costume should be made of the same material. The design is equally suitable for development in a tub fabric-which, however, should be rather firm texture. Linen, or rep would be very desirable for August wear.
No. 4117 (center)-This attractive skirt, which is sown in the view combined with wasit No. 4141, will prove a very desirable model for either practical or dressy development, since it may with perfect propriety be finished plainly or trimmed in any desired manner. The popular high waistline is a pleasing possibility, but the regulation style is also provided for those who prefer it. The closing is effected at the back, either in habit style or with an inverted pleat, as desired. The skirt may be finished in either round or shorter length. IN the round length, it measures two and three-quarter yards at the lower edge in size thirty-six. The design, if desired, for practical wear, may suitably modeled in any of the fabrics favored for tailoring skirts, while for a more elaborate development one may select satin, foulard, crepe de Chine, or any of the fashionable silks. As shown the skirt was developed in white serge. Navy blue or black serge, panama, homespun, cheviot, linen, rep or any firm tub fabric would develop the design equally well.
No. 4124 (on the right)-The design of this Princess dress is of a type that everyone must admire for its artistic effect, while its many possibilities will command the instant attention of every woman who likes to make her own dresses. The model is provided with a fitted body lining and closes at the back, either in habit style or with an inverted pleat. The dress, which may be either shirred or tucked, is attached to a square yolk, which may be cut round or square at the neck or made high and finished with a standing collar. The sleeves may be in full or shorter length. The bolero, which is cut with body and sleeves in one, provides a charming finish for the gown. In modeling this design any material of a soft texture may be used, including the popular silks and silk-wool mixtures. The dress may be made with or with the flounce, and in sweep, round or shorter length. In the sweep length it measures two and three-quarter yards at the lower edge. Size thirty-six requires six and three-quarter yards of material thirty-six inches wide with two and one-quarter yards of extra material or three and one-quarter yards of embroidered flouncing for the flounce, or, if developed as shown, two yards of embroidered allover will be needed for the bolero, with one-half yard of allover lace and eight yards of band trimming. For the body lining, one and five-eighths yards of thirty-six inch material will be required.
No. 4152 (on the left)-One of the important items of the vacation wardrobe is the long, light-weight coat, for whether one go away from home for a trip or takes one's holiday in tabloid form-that is to say a series of brief outings-such a garment is equally indispensable. The attractive model shown here is deigned primarily for the miss, but may be as appropriately developed for the small woman. Pongee, linen or rep would fashion it suitably for warm weather wear, while for use when the cooler days arrive one might select serge, cheviot, shepherd's check or one of the English or Scotch worsteds. The coat, which may be made in full or shorter length, is of the popular semi-fitting type, and has the fashionable low-placed closing. A wide sailor collar, which may be cut in round or square outline, finishes the neck. For the sleeves, one may choose either of two styles, one of which is plain and the other gathered at the shoulder.
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Below are two sets of illustrations of garments for misses' or small women.
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