Corsets and Crinolines
1911 Corset

Folkwear
Armistice Blouse

Rocking Horse Farm
Regency Bib Front Gown

Sense & Sensibility
1914 Afternoon Dress
Regency Gown
Regency Spencer/Pelisse

Pattern Rating System

Folkwear's Armistice Blouse

This was my first attempt at using a Folkwear pattern, so I didn't know what to expect. While I encountered a few problems along the way, I was highly pleased with the finished project!

The first things I noticed about the pattern is that it doesn't always tell you to use a French seam method on the majority of the seams, or to clip curves. This can be confusing to the amateur seamstress. I used the French seam method on all the seams that would be exposed, and was sure to clip the curve of the neckline, as I couldn't get the collar to lay right before I did this. The other sewing related problem was the sleeves. The sleeves appear to have little or no extra fullness at the cap. I had to run gathering stitches along the cap of my sleeves in order for them to fit into the armholes properly. This is not a terribly "bad" problem, as I like the look of the gathered sleeve I ended up with.

This pattern does require a fair amount of handsewing, which can be daunting to the newer seamstress or those who don't like to do a lot of sewing by hand. There are also a large number of buttonholes, so if you're like me and usually prefer to do buttonholes by hand, you might want to reconsider using a machine buttonhole.

There were a few design features that I would re-work the next time I made the blouse. The first and most noticeable was the vestee (the rectangular piece in the front). It is quite low, and even though I raised mine some, it was still a little too low for my taste for every-day wear. Next time, I think I'll raise it another 2" or so for a daytime blouse. (If the blouse is worn as evening or special occasion wear, the lowness of the neckline would be fine.)

I would also adjust the waist tie. Although this is optional, I like the fact that it is attached over gathers in the back of the blouse, keeping those from shifting about while you're wearing it. However, when I wore the blouse with a straight skirt, the tie added too much unsightly bulk around the waistline. To remedy this, I would take a smaller "tie" (just use the pattern cut down) of approximately "5" long, and attach that over the gathers as directed. This way I can still have the control over the gathers, yet none of the bulk of the ties.

The third and final item I would change is cuffs. While I liked the fold back cuff, it was much too big for me and kept slipping down over my hand. Since the cuff does have buttons you don't need a whole lot of ease to get your hand in and out. I would make the cuffs narrower, or eliminate the fold back cuff altogether, leaving just one cuff.

After all the problems I ran into with this blouse, I am still very, very pleased with the final blouse. It is a very comfortable design that is tailored yet feminine, and can be combined with a more modern skirt style or pair of nice slacks for a updated vintage look.

If you would like more information or to purchase this pattern, please visit Folkwear's website.-Reviewed by Miss C.

This pattern is rated I.


Artwork is October (1877) by James Tissot, courtesy of CGFA.

Please contact the webmaster if you are experiencing any technical difficulties with this site.

Home
About
Additions
Articles
FAQ
Feature
Links
Newsletter
Poll
Reviews
Resources
Sewing
Upcoming

©2003 Across the Ages